The speed of a water wave is described by v=(gd)^(1/2)Â Â where d is the water depth, assumedto be small compared to the wavelength. Because their speedchanges, water waves refract when moving into a region of differentdepth.
Suppose waves approach the coast from a storm far away to thenorth–northeast. Demonstrate that the waves move nearlyperpendicular to the shoreline when they reach the beach.
Suppose waves approach the coast, carrying energy with uniformdensity along originally straight wave fronts. Show that the energyreaching the coast is concentrated at the headlands and has lowerintensity in the bays.
